• Deck Staining Brush On Pole
• Best Paint Brush For Staining Wood
• What Kind Of Paint Brush For Staining Wood

Wooster Bravo Stainer. Purdy Paint Brush – All Paints and Stains. One of the most famous brushes in the. Tack Cloth-Best Cloth for Staining Wood. A tack cloth is one of the best staining.

Your outdoor deck is one of those structures your visitors see first when they walk into your compound. Keeping it looking beautiful is, therefore, a great way to boost your home’s curb appeal and protect its value. Your deck is constantly exposed to damaging weather and environmental elements such as rain, bugs and UV rays. Staining your wooden deck will protect it against these elements.

When stain soaks into the wood, the product creates a barrier that guards against rain and sun damage. While this thin coating will be your deck’s first line of defense, failing to apply it properly will leave your deck exposed sooner than later. Uncovered wood can rot, discolor, fade and break down forming splinters on the surface.

Having said that, which is the best way to apply stain to a wooden deck – Spray, Roll or Brush? You won’t believe how many times we get asked this question here at Hines Painting. In today’s post, we will try to break down these three options.

Spray vs Roll vs Brush
Staining a deck is not similar to painting, so the methods and tools might slightly differ. The simplest answer to the question of Spray, Roll or Brush is to use a Brush. But that’s not a rule of thumb, there is quite some room for flexibility. When staining, you want to make sure that the stain penetrates deep into the wood to provide sufficient protection, and the brush will allow you to work the stain into the wood.

How About Rollers and Sprayers?
As mentioned above, using a brush is not the rule of thumb. However, when it comes to rollers and sprayers, there are some things you should keep in mind. Rollers are a great option when you need to apply the stain faster, but they can be difficult to work with in hard-to-reach areas.

Using a sprayer is a viable option too, but you need to make sure that the sprayer is set to low pressure and you’re spraying close to the wood. While sprayers are quite good even at staining hard-to-reach areas, the over-spray is one of the biggest downsides of this tool.

Although it may look great at first, the stain is actually unable to soak into the wood properly, which takes away the protective capabilities of the stain. If you have to take this option, we suggest that you use an airless sprayer and protect all the surrounding immovable items from the over-spray.

Ok, How About Brush and Roller?
You don’t have to restrict yourself to one tool, you can actually use a roller and a brush to combine the benefits of the two. While using a brush alone can help you work that stain into the wood property and tackle those narrow edges and corners, it will take a little longer to complete your project.

To stain your deck faster and still achieve amazing results, consider using a roller for wide flat surfaces, like the main board, and then using a brush to finish up the narrow edges, railings and those small spaces near obstacles. When using both the brush and roller, be careful not to create puddles or overruns as you go along.

Bottom Line
Does that overview of the three options make things a little clearer? Indeed, while any of the tools can be used individually to stain your deck, the brush produces the best results. But when combined with a roller, you can save yourself some valuable time without compromising the quality of the results.

If you would rather hire a painting contractor in Amador County, California to handle your deck staining, Hines Painting Company can be of help. Just contact us to book an estimate and we will take everything from there.

My friend John asked me to come over and help him with some crown molding he was getting ready to put up in his new family room. He had some beautiful poplar boards milled to match the trim in the rest of his house, and while I would have opted for a stain to highlight the wavy grain, John and Becky (mostly Becky) wanted it painted. “Happy wife, happy life.” So, paint it was.

Deck Staining Brush On Pole

When I arrived, John had the boards laid out on sawhorses in his garage, with newspapers spread out to protect the floor. But then he handed me a two-inch wide foam brush. “John,” I said, “Haven’t you heard? The better the brush, the better the finish.”

Which launched us into a discussion of how to choose the right brush for each project. Some of John and Becky’s trim was going to be stained and sealed with a clear finish, which gave me a chance (while we were working) to explain to John how to pick the best brush when you are staining and finishing. Take a look and see what John learned.

Why Does It Matter?

As I explained to John, a brush is a means of transporting a stain or finish from the can to the wood. When applying the stain, you can use either a rag or a brush. I prefer a brush, as it works better for getting stain into into corners and carvings, but you don’t have to use an expensive one or, for that matter, being excessively neat. That’s because your next step will be to wipe off any excess stain, so your rag will erase any brush marks, runs, drips or bristles left by your brush.

When laying down a smooth coat of clear finish, however, the brush will have a major impact on how it looks when it dries. That’s when picking the right brush really becomes important. And as I said to John, “You wouldn’t use a sledgehammer to drive in a finish nail, so why use a foam brush to try to lay down a smooth coat of finish?”

Foam Brushes.

I must admit, I do occasionally use foam brushes when staining a small project. Their greatest selling point is they are inexpensive.

But when it comes to applying a smooth coat of clear finish, such as polyurethane, a foam brush is not my first choice. Instead of bristles, it has a blade. The blunt sides leave two parallel ridges of finish, like a snowplow on the highway. Also, the foam head contains air, which can leave bubbles in your finish.

And if you use it for very long, the foam head begins to wear out and get floppy. It will even start to dissolve as you are brushing on stains and finishes containing mineral spirits or lacquer thinner.

Oil-Based Stains and Finishes.

Oil-based products contain mineral spirits, and for them I reach for a natural bristle brush.

For oil-based stains I use a Minwax® Wood Finish™ Stain Brush. These brushes are designed to carry a lot of stain from the can to your project, and hold up much better than foam brushes.

And unlike foam brushes, these natural bristles brushes can be cleaned with ordinary mineral spirits (paint thinner) and re-used indefinitely.

Much better than tossing dozens of foam brushes a year into the garbage can!

Water-Based Stains and Finishes.

Unlike mineral spirits, water causes natural bristles to swell. As they do, they loose their shape. Rather than use a natural bristle brush with water-based stains and clear finishes and watch it swell out of shape (top brush), I use a synthetic bristle brush, such as Minwax® Polycrylic® Brush (bottom brush). These bristles won’t absorb water and won’t lose their shape.

And clean-up is a breeze with soap and water.

Quick Tip: After cleaning, wrap the damp bristles in a paper towel, then secure with a rubber band. Once the bristles are dry, slip your brush back into its cardboard sleeve to maintain their shape.

Use the hole in the end of the handle to hang your brush to dry with the bristles pointing down, letting any remnants of stain or finish escape before hardening.

Good, Better, Best.

As I told John, not all brushes are created equal. They can range in price from less than a dollar to more than twenty dollars. You can spot the difference in three areas: the handle, the bristles, and the ferrel, which holds the bristles to the handle.

Handle – If you used a brush every day to make a living, you would want a contoured handle. Most of us are perfectly content with a standard handle that costs less to make.

Ferrel – Check the metal band holding the bristles to the handle to make sure it is secure. Tug gently on the bristles to see if the ferrel has a firm grasp on them.

Bristles – These should be soft and pliable.

In this photo, the foam brush at the top rates a “Good,” the bristle brush in the middle is a “Better,” and the professional brush at the bottom rates a “Best.”

It Takes All Three.

Just as you have different sizes and types of screwdrivers in your workshop, odds are you will need all three types of brushes: foam, natural bristle, and synthetic bristle. You will also want to have them in different widths to fit the different size of cans of stains and clear finishes. The best time to buy them is before you need them, so pick out a selection of types and sizes, store them in a drawer to keep the dirt and dust off them, and clean them after each use. The reward for your efforts will be a stain and a finish that is as smooth as any professional could have achieved. Autodesk revit 2013 for mac download.

Best Paint Brush For Staining Wood

Good Luck!

What Kind Of Paint Brush For Staining Wood

Bruce